VALUE{able}

How to design something of value?

Fashion and clothing, as bespoke earlier, is about personal style and identity. Therefore it needs to be in someway adaptable, how else would we make sure it really represents ones identity, beside just copying a style shown in the magazines? In the name of sustainable design, this means, that one piece should grow with the persons style and individual preferences. Therefore I ask, why aren’t there more adjustable, or diy-kits available on the market? I know from my project, it is very difficult to design Half-way products, as you do not have any influence on the finishing of the garment beyond the purchase. How much can we expect of the customers to know about sewing, what materials and tools do they have to finish, are they able to “successfully” finish the garment? How can we secure the outcome to be in this case wearable? Is this what fashion designers are afraid of? Are they scared of the freedom and ideas of their customers? At least I have to admit, that I have had a hard time to find fashion students who would be interested in helping me to design a Half-way garment. I have seen many nice study projects on for example: 'A labour behind the label' in UK (http://fashioninganethicalindustry.org/studentwork/) Even though, most of the projects, were based on working with organic or recycled materials but not tackeling the problem of the participatory aspect. 

Pic from: a labout behind the label

 

For this reason I also decided to work with a less researched idea in the area of fashion and clothing design. This project is an experimental approach to get an idea of what are possibilities for Designers and makers to facilitate a change in consumption habits, and consumers attitude. Half-way products and garments which are planned for co-designing, need to offer the opportunity to be easily customised so they can be changed also over time, and as its best they reveal their life-story by altering in beauty. Because than, those garments encourage a closer attachment and support the idea of a longer-lasting product to person relationship. (Fletcher, 2012) This relationship will aim for a higher product value and in the best case involve that user takes better care for the product. The items may be redesigned and time will be invested to reinvent them. Thereby the products replacement will be postponed and the input of new resources can be decreased, which supports a slower consumption. (Cooper, 2005)

How many products can we really value and attach to? Tim Cooper states in his paper on 'Slower Consumption' that it is uncertain to how many products consumers can create a closer affection. If we compare; human beings are only able to create a deep emotional bonding to a certain amount of other human beings. (Cooper, 2005, p.62) Resulting in the question, how many products are we able to really care for? In the current throwaway culture, it is very hard to make people care for their objects, and prohibit the fast replacement through an update. What creates the need to constantly consume more, and how can it be replaced? (TEDs 10) Can we train, to wish for more? Interesting approach is http://www.thegreatamericanappareldiet.com/ - where you can freely sign up to the community, and share your experience whilst reducing or stoping your fashion consumption for a year. Participation is reducing consumption to the extreme, but will most likely make you forever aware when you will purchase something the next time. Tim Cooper states that for reducing the consumers desire for new products, their values and attitudes need to be understood, that an actual attachment to the products they own can be encouraged. (Cooper, 2005) It very much depends on ones personality, and capability to start a progress of valuing what one owns, similar as some do have more closer friends and take the time to care for their friendship. 

Value through keeping up the memory and attachment.

  Based on the research results and positive feedback of the first workshop, this case study could lead to the assumption that 'making' can be a key to create higher value and attachment towards a piece. Half-way products offer the chance for self-expression, as well as provide an easy base to start, which may prohibit production failure, especially within the setting of a participatory workshop. The gained skills and understanding of the product will help to take good care and redesign the product if desired.

Therefore we could assume, that for supporting an open and sustainable design approach, Half-way products, as well as participatory Design workshops offer an interesting opportunity for further research to be explored. In general, Half-way products can not become a mass-produced new way of fast consumption, they should be seen as a tool, as well as participatory workshops are a tool to encourage and enable the user. In the best case scenario, they reach a higher level of value in the owners wardrobe and help them to develop an independent and personal style, which offers a starting point towards a behavioural change among their makers.