VALUE{able}

How to design something of value?

Fashion and clothing, as bespoke earlier, is about personal style and identity. Therefore it needs to be in someway adaptable, how else would we make sure it really represents ones identity, beside just copying a style shown in the magazines? In the name of sustainable design, this means, that one piece should grow with the persons style and individual preferences. Therefore I ask, why aren’t there more adjustable, or diy-kits available on the market? I know from my project, it is very difficult to design Half-way products, as you do not have any influence on the finishing of the garment beyond the purchase. How much can we expect of the customers to know about sewing, what materials and tools do they have to finish, are they able to “successfully” finish the garment? How can we secure the outcome to be in this case wearable? Is this what fashion designers are afraid of? Are they scared of the freedom and ideas of their customers? At least I have to admit, that I have had a hard time to find fashion students who would be interested in helping me to design a Half-way garment. I have seen many nice study projects on for example: 'A labour behind the label' in UK (http://fashioninganethicalindustry.org/studentwork/) Even though, most of the projects, were based on working with organic or recycled materials but not tackeling the problem of the participatory aspect. 

Pic from: a labout behind the label

 

For this reason I also decided to work with a less researched idea in the area of fashion and clothing design. This project is an experimental approach to get an idea of what are possibilities for Designers and makers to facilitate a change in consumption habits, and consumers attitude. Half-way products and garments which are planned for co-designing, need to offer the opportunity to be easily customised so they can be changed also over time, and as its best they reveal their life-story by altering in beauty. Because than, those garments encourage a closer attachment and support the idea of a longer-lasting product to person relationship. (Fletcher, 2012) This relationship will aim for a higher product value and in the best case involve that user takes better care for the product. The items may be redesigned and time will be invested to reinvent them. Thereby the products replacement will be postponed and the input of new resources can be decreased, which supports a slower consumption. (Cooper, 2005)

How many products can we really value and attach to? Tim Cooper states in his paper on 'Slower Consumption' that it is uncertain to how many products consumers can create a closer affection. If we compare; human beings are only able to create a deep emotional bonding to a certain amount of other human beings. (Cooper, 2005, p.62) Resulting in the question, how many products are we able to really care for? In the current throwaway culture, it is very hard to make people care for their objects, and prohibit the fast replacement through an update. What creates the need to constantly consume more, and how can it be replaced? (TEDs 10) Can we train, to wish for more? Interesting approach is http://www.thegreatamericanappareldiet.com/ - where you can freely sign up to the community, and share your experience whilst reducing or stoping your fashion consumption for a year. Participation is reducing consumption to the extreme, but will most likely make you forever aware when you will purchase something the next time. Tim Cooper states that for reducing the consumers desire for new products, their values and attitudes need to be understood, that an actual attachment to the products they own can be encouraged. (Cooper, 2005) It very much depends on ones personality, and capability to start a progress of valuing what one owns, similar as some do have more closer friends and take the time to care for their friendship. 

Value through keeping up the memory and attachment.

  Based on the research results and positive feedback of the first workshop, this case study could lead to the assumption that 'making' can be a key to create higher value and attachment towards a piece. Half-way products offer the chance for self-expression, as well as provide an easy base to start, which may prohibit production failure, especially within the setting of a participatory workshop. The gained skills and understanding of the product will help to take good care and redesign the product if desired.

Therefore we could assume, that for supporting an open and sustainable design approach, Half-way products, as well as participatory Design workshops offer an interesting opportunity for further research to be explored. In general, Half-way products can not become a mass-produced new way of fast consumption, they should be seen as a tool, as well as participatory workshops are a tool to encourage and enable the user. In the best case scenario, they reach a higher level of value in the owners wardrobe and help them to develop an independent and personal style, which offers a starting point towards a behavioural change among their makers.

Creating Stories – Uusix Locally 'MADE in Helsinki'

Me building the material forest.

Within the past months I have been rather busy with working at another project that is still closely linked to my thesis. 

It is focusing as most of my other approachs also, on creating stories and memory conected to products and the people. Memories captured in products are most often mentioned as the main reason why people value them higher. My goal is therefore to create stories, memory and meaningfulness within the products so they grow together with their owner, to be kept, cared for and valued for a longer period of time. Even though, if one day the owner decides to give them away, if he/she cares for them, they are less likely to just put them to the garbage, they rather try to find a new owner who will take care. This thought I got at least when talking with friends, and sellers at the flea-market. 
I had a nice encounter a few days ago at the big Valteri Flea-market at Vallila, I found a lovely dress saying 'Made in Finland', and the owner told my a sweet story to it, and that she had so many nice memories conected to it, so she wanted it to find a new owner who would take care of it as well. Now its mine, and I love it already :) I also stayed in contact with the former owner, which is a really nice aswell.

Uusix Room - A space to interact - dive into the material forest.

Also in the research feedback from the Make{able} workshop I often found the key point that creates the higher value, was the making by the owner, or at least finishing and fine-tuning - creating a personal stamp and fit. This will create a memory of making and working with it. 
Stamping things, leads me to my other bigger project with Uusix Verstaat, a social enterprise of the city Helsinki. I have been enjoying to work there and with Uusix since last autumn, creating textile prints for the WDC and 200 years of Helsinki and mainly organising and building their room in Helsinki Museum - Hakasalmi Villa.

Patchwork created from the left overs of the city prints.

Handmade by Uusix

Their products are mainly shaped by the people making them. Me as designer just had the role of providing them with a starting idea – the textile single prints. The products and patterns were mostly created by the people only with some feedback from my side. All the wonderful items are produced locally in their facilities in Kyläsaari, Helsinki. Uusix is part of Helsinki's rehabilitation unit, and is dedicated to people who have been longer-term unemployed. Its main goal is to help them finding back to working life. The products created at Uusix are mainly based on recycled materials, products that host a former life-story already, but have been a discarded or lost their original purpose. Within their various workshops, they find new ways to be reinvented and reinterpreted to become a new life or story. Uusix was now also represented in the recently opened 'Made in Helsinki 1700 -2012' exhibition at Hakasalmi. The past two or three months I was mainly involved in organising planning and building the exhibition room. Which I am after all very happy to see in real action. The room is also named after the whole concept of Uusix and tries to represent the organisation in the best possible way I could think of. The theme called 'New Stories' (Uusia Tarinoita) is very much conform with my thesis idea, therefore I will try to also include it within my writing and thesis studies. The whole room is based on the white space of an unwritten story, filled with materials, to touch and interact, and shaped by the people of Uusix, that surround the room with a 13 meter photography panorama. There are also going to be workshops once a month, always the first Wednesday of each month, starting with the Taideyö (Night of the arts) in August 2012. Currently there are pillows, filled with recycled materials to test, feel and move around as well as a stamping station to create your own postcards with my Helsinki illustrations on mould-made paper. Enjoy and Make! Address and more info straight from the Museums site: Hakasalmi Villa

Stamp your own postcards.

Fashion for activating the consumer.

SANS is one business example among others, like 'DIY couture' that are starting to shift and rethink the currently existing system of fashion. Their approach is supporting the thought of opening up the closed circles of ready made clothing, towards including the user within the process and making. It positions the consumer in a mindset of understanding and involvement, which means to go a major step towards a slower and more sustainable fashion industry.

SANS collection - image from http://gliving.com

Lika Volkova, co-founder and designer at SANS points out in a video (http://www.youtube.com/sansatelier) that she does not consider the brand as an eco-brand in itself, questioning if any clothing brand at all can call themselves eco, as in general their aim still is production and sales of garments no matter if they are made with organic fabric, or recycled materials. It still means new circles which use resources for production, transport, storage etc. The label offers downloadable fashion patterns, which are good to understand with the help of nice illustrations. They offer plenty of freedom to add details and change the design by the maker.

The idea is staying the same, wether it is extravagant fashion or everyday garments. In my opinion, the vision L. Volkova is pointing out in the video is interesting - she wants to see exciting fashion on the streets made by people - but the other side of it might be that people get easier fed up with the garment. As in general classics, are considered as the most longer-lasting products over all. But the idea - what you create yourself, has stronger meaning to yourself - definitively supports my thesis research as well. 

Multiwear Jacket by SANS - image http://gliving.com

I very much like their multifunctional jacket, which can be downloaded at their website. (http://www.sans.name) This approach might be more for the persons, which are already confident with sewing in one way or another, therefore I think the Half-way product I m working with is the first step, and downloadable patterns, depending on their detailed explanation are a second step towards a self made wardrobe. At least this is what I could so far conclude based on my research in the workshops. 

Further downloadable patterns you can find on DIY couture (http://diy-couture.co.uk/home.html). 

Summer Collection DIY couture - image diycouture.co.uk

Rosie Martin, a UK based Fashion designer approaches the matter of changing the fashion industry to a slower functioning with the vision of inspiring the people with her 'how-to' booklets. She offers booklets for each garment, that is part of a bigger easy to achieve collection based on classic pieces, that can be reinvented over and over again. The approach is great, as her technique is very easy to understand and follow with the detailed photography supported illustrations.

'Make the people make'

at Kamppi (image by Siivuous Päivä)

Does making result in a closer product-attachment and through that has the impact of changing peoples attitude and behavior towards their shopping habits? This is one of the main questions I wish to follow up during my thesis research. As I mentioned before, the general feedback of the Make{able} - capable of being made (def. by the dictionary) - workshop was extremely positive, and in the hype of making, the participants were sure they will change their perception and attitude towards clothes. But how to keep up the image and feeling in ones mind for a longer time and in the bigger scale it is of course not only trying to change the attitude towards clothes, fashion and the service provided by the clothing industry, but make the customers aware of each story behind the things they purchase. Most of us, have lost the knowledge and skill to evaluate the amount of work, and resources used during the process of making the items, which are so easily and cheaply available in the next by store.
Is there a way to constantly keep the issue up, rise awareness and at the same time actually provide the opportunity of making things by oneself. If thinking now only on clothing, skills, tools and material needs to be provided, as well as the space. But it is not a Mission impossible in my eyes.

balloon kinda skrit

Like mentioned before we are just in the time were the making-culture is on its way back, just spotted yesterday in Helsinki an amazing sewing-workshop outdoors in lovely sunny weather. It seems the city and its inhabitants are willing and interested to gain back places and skills for making things themselves. The spirit of the place was the same inspiring as on the workshop I was organizing on the weekend. To see and feel people gathering, making and helping each other within a nice setting is just the best thing to end a busy working day for example. Through exchange among the participants and workshop leaders lovely items of recycled fabric were made. I think its not only about sewing, that it brings up that feeling of understanding and change of attitude, whichever way or material will be used, the making together can be one of the facilitators that bring the change. And that is what we as designers should keep in mind. Involve the future user in that process as much as possible. I of course had to participate a bit myself, and made a multi-functional skirt/top for the summer as well as a little shirt.

as a small dress or top.

shirt kinda thing.

The event was related to the upcoming  Siivuous Päivä. "Cleaning Day will convert cities into giant flea markets on Saturday 12th of May. Anyone can sell or donate their furniture, clothes, gadgets and more, right on the street, and shop new ones from their neighbors. During this neat day one can also sell anything self-made." http://siivouspaiva.com/